"I was born on April 30th 1987 on a spring day in North Carolina. Legend has it that Avalon pier was going off that morning. My old man being the surf junkie he is was out in the lineup with the rest of the addicts. And of course that’s when my mother's water broke, at least that's how her story goes. I've never seen any photos or video to prove it, but it's a nice story for a mother to tell a son and my dad does look kinda salt crusted holding me in that photo as a new born. On the other hand my dad is the saltiest of em all, a real life cowboy.
Back when I was 8 years old I would get pumped up to surf ESA Menehune heats by listening to “kiss from a rose” by Seal, in my Mom's 1989 Izuzu trooper.
In my opinion Dane Reynolds is the most radical surfer to ever live, though Miki Dora was probably the most legendary, Tom Curren the most stylish and mysterious, Andy Irons will be remembered as one the last rock stars, and Kelly Slater has more world titles than hair follicles.
Music influences what my mind tells my body to do. Lately it's been all about Jerry Lee Lewis, Glen Campbell and Ed Schrader’s music beat. I recently acquired Ennino Morricone's masterpiece soundtrack to “The Good the Bad and the Ugly” on vinyl, it's strange a Spaniard would come up with the most relevant and iconic gun slinging drifter sounds ever recorded.
I'll end this little autobiographito by stating there's a lot of east coast surfers way more deserving, who charge harder and care even less. Here's ten albums that changed my life between the time I lost my virginity and now in no particular order of favoritism or when my ears first experienced them. "
Joy Division - Unknown Pleasures
Bad Brains - Rock for Light
David Bowie - The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars
T-Rex - The Slider
David Bowie - Young Americans
The Misfits - Static Age
The Feelies - Crazy Rhythms
Lou Reed - Rock n Roll Animal
Wu Tang Clan - Enter the 36 Chambers
The Pixies - Bossanova